Eco-gardening is at its best in The Monday Garden
November 9, 2003, issue 85
Can't do autumn without maples, so this issue honors our wonderful native red maples. Here's one along a Stamford, CT sidewalk, showing off its range of colors and its telltale hallmark: next year's bud clusters.

The reds are the most "common" of our 13 native maples. They range from southern Canada to Texas and Florida, and west to the Mississippi. They're the dominant overstory tree where conditions suit, and because of the red maple's flexibility, conditions suit it more often than any other native tree. Unlike the invasive Norways, the reds "play nicely with others", helping to sustain a diversified forest.
In New England, red maples like damper conditions and are known as "swamp maples"; further south they prefers drier, often rocky, uplands. They are said to grow faster than the Norway and sugar maples but slower than the silvers and box elders. Red maples make great yard and "street trees" as long as the soil (and local pollutants) are not high PH.
Red and silver maples produce maple syrup (albeit not in the quality or quantity of the sugar maples), pulp, lumber, shade, and leaves good for composting. While red maples are said to be deathly poisonous to horses, they are an important winter food for rabbits, deer and moose.
In the Northeast, the maples you're most likely to see are the native reds, sugars and silvers, and the imported sycamores (not sycamore trees, sycamore maples ), Norways and Japanese. They turn color in this order: sugars, reds, Norways, silvers, Japanese, sycamore.
Each maple variety has distinctive features but since North America's blessed with many, many maple trees, there's a lot of variation, including confusing "cross-overs". For example, one hallmark of the red maple is red leaf stems but Norways and sycamore maples also sometime have this feature. (So, don't feel bad if you can identify most maples, most of the time; but not all of the maples all of the time.)
The pictured maple is a classic red: red leaf stems; small, three-lobed, toothed leaves, with the lobes pointing forward; and leaves turning multi-colored in the fall (they often look calico). The tree also has the classic smooth gray bark of a red maple; the bark often develops deep vertical furrows with age.
Red Maple along the Mill River with 5-lobed leaves showing the classic characteristics of a young, smooth trunk and an older, furrowed trunk.
Compare the bark of a young silver maple.
The leaves of Norway, sugar and red maples can look very similar. The reds have notched sinuses between the lobes, the sugars and silvers have U-shaped sinuses, and the Norways tend to look like the webbing of a duck's foot.
if in doubt, look for the bud clusters. The only native maples with buds in clusters, rather than pairs, are the reds and the silvers. You can usually tell the two apart because the silvers have very shaggy bark and 5-pointed, deep cut, lacy leaves.
Photo credits: Sue Sweeney
© Sue Sweeney 2003
What the readers said:
I love the maple tree story. Liz (CT)
maybe maples are why we moved back to the East. It gets in your soul. Many thanks for these updates. Francie (NC)
_____________________________________
Comments (2)
HELLO- DO YOU KNOW OF ANY MOSS THAT WILL GROW UNDER MY HUGE, OLD NORWAY MAPLE? AND IF SO WHERE TO GET IT? I'M LOOKING FOR VERY LOW GROUND COVER OR LAWN REPLACEMENT FOR A 10' X 35'AREA UNDER IT THAT CAN TOLERATE SOME FOOT TRAFFIC. . THANKS MUCH. MICHAEL NEAR PHILLY.
Posted by MICHAEL POTTER | March 31, 2004 5:19 PM
Posted on March 31, 2004 17:19
ichael--
Check the tree to see if you can safely remove a lower branch or two (no more) to let in more light.
However, it sounds like the problem is more the tree roots than the shade. Norways, lovely as they are, are notorious for choking roots as well as overly dense shade. You can't disturb the shallow feeder roots without threatening the tree. You, though, can add up to two inches of mulch or new soil without smoothing the roots. You can also dig a limited number of holes in the root mass.
Take a look at the second photo in http://inmygarden.bubbanfriends.org/archives/000181.html
I'd be interested to see what happens if you did a test patch of ajuga, ornamental strawberries and creeping jenny on two inches of new soil. Ajuga is walkable. Use cedar bark mulch or gravel for a pathway until the plants get established. Also, flagstones take up space prettily and to help retain whatever moisture you do get. In a 10 x 40" area you should also be able to dig one to three holes about 12" x12" without threatening the roots. Here you could add "dry woods" ferns or similar plants. The first year, and any drought year, you'll have to add a bit of water when you don't get rain for a while.
BTW: I recently learned the way to keep gravel or mulch on a path is to use three sizes so they mesh together.
Let me know how you what you do; you'll be getting the newsletter weekly, so stay in touch
Sue
--------
Posted by susan w. sweeney | May 30, 2004 4:50 PM
Posted on May 30, 2004 16:50