TheMondayGarden.com

i planted a wite pine tree in jan & it,s
turnin brown please answer is it deying / ////

Sonny--

White pines to do shed a good part of their needles in the spring and can look unsightly for a month or so. Where I live in CT, though, this happens in April. By now the tree look fine. Check the other white pines in your area. Do they look still a little yellow? If so, yours may be OK but watch it carefully for the next month or so.

Here are the mostly likely reasons for a young tree to die:

(1) in poor health when planted
(2) improper planting (didn't remove enough of the root-wrappings, planted too deep, etc)
(3) lack of proper follow up care (didn't get watered or got over watered)
(4) wrong site -- for a white pine that would be too wet, too shady or soil too alkaline (too much lime)
(5) unusually harsh weather.

If the tree is failing, it's often thought better to replace it than to try to nurse it along as it can take years for it to recover.

Have you talked to the person that you bought the tree from? Often, there's a replacement guarantee if the tree should fail shortly after planting. Also, it would be good to know why they think that tree is failing. It is better to bring them in early while they tree can still be saved than to wait until there's no hope.

Let me know if I can be of further help

Sue

I have a 7-8 Ft. Eastern White Pine. The Birds got into the top of the tree and broke the center spike and the surrounding branches. Now from the top down about a foot the bark has turned brown. Should I cut the trunk off down to that point.

Don --

I am not a professional arborist and don't know what one would tell you. What I would do though, if it were my tree, is as you suggest. I'd cut the damaged part off.

I'd make my cut with a very shape tool about 1 1/2" to 2" above the top live branches and slant the cut at a 45 degree angle, so rain would run off better. If some of the top branches are a little higher than the others; I'd make the high-end of my cut on the side with the highest branches.

Hopefully, within a year or so one of your top branches will emerge as the new leader. If that doesn't happen, you could gently make one of top branch into a leader by gently wiring it and bending it, the way they do with bonsai .(Don't forget to remove the wire before the tree grows around it).

Good luck and let me know how things works out for you.

Sue

Is there a variety of white pine that has limbs that grow more vertical (than horizontal) from the main trunk? I like the white pine, but am looking for a pine that does not spread so wide.

Thanks

We have about 15 white pines in our yard (in a row) and are thinking of having them taken down and replaced, however, I have a hard time with the idea of cutting down any tree!! The city has come in over the years and cut all the branches off on one side of the trees for wire clearance. They are completely bald on one side. They are still standing strong, but any wind or ice storm, we lose several of the very large branches. Is it wise to cut them down and start over with new trees?

Carla --

White pines are notorious for dropping branches in big storms, that's just what they do. Somehow it doesn't seem to harm their looks. Now the utility company, that's something else. There's no way your trees will ever fill in again from what the City has done.

You should make sure that the trees are healthy and not likely to tip over on the house, car, or a passer-by. Assuming the trees are structurally sound, whether you should replace the trees is mostly an aesthetics question -- how do the trees look now and how do they affect how your whole property looks?

If you decide to take them out, it would be best to replace them with something shorter which will stay under the wires -- crabapple, hawthorn, dogwood, and serviceberry (shad) are among our wonderful small native trees that you could chose. There are also many dwarf evergreens on the market.

Consider replacing less than all of the trees and/or replacing them with a naturalized mix of shrubs and small trees, rather than a row of all the same thing.

Hope this helps

Sue

Hello, my 'Bob Spruce' so called because its like those my hero Bob Ross paints, I've now been told is a Weymouth Pine, which is our English name of the Eastern White pine. I've looked on the internet and found photos and whilst the description fits our tree and the cones and branch leaves, the bark of our tree is very smooth and has horizontal ring impressions whereas the Eastern Pine has distinct deep verical bark pattern...Is my friend right? We bought the tree some 25 years ago in a plant pot, its now a good 30 plus feet tall. Cheers for any info Dave (England)

Dave -- Internet makes the pond smaller all the time!

Young white pine do have a smooth trunk as you describe, and could still have it at 30'-- 25 years is hardly teenage for a pine. Many find it better to go by the needles and cones. The Eastern White Pine has 5 needles in a bundle and they are long and soft. The cone is almost distinctive -- see the pictures on the site.

Does this help?

Cheers

Sue

When do Eastern white pine trees bloom? My son has a project to do and I remember the needles falling in the fall but is that because it is when new growth occurs as well or blooms? Please let me know asap. Thank you for your help

Cheryl,

around here the white pine male flowers bloom May - June. The cones, though, take a long time to develop. Your son might find researching the white pine's reproductive cycle right interesting.

Sue

my question has to do with white pines, when the tree is forming the candles but before the new
needles appear, there is a white powder that appears, it looks like a fungus, then the new candles die. is this a abnormal problem or something that naturally occurs?
I have replaced several trees that turned brown and died, seem to be having a hard time getting the water thing right due to varied terrain and drainage.
thanks
bobd

Bob -- I haven't seen this problem locally. I think you're right that the problem is cultural. Suggest you choose a plant that likes the growing conditions.

FYI: Any new tree needs supplemental water for two years and then should be OK on its own. One way to get water to young trees is to buy a couple of large plastic garbage cans, poke a few small holes in the bottom and place near the tree. Fill with water via a hose once a week unless the area has received an inch of rain that week. Water will slowly seep down to the tree's roots (Adjust holes to allow water to seep out over 1/2 day to a day).

If watering is not practical, consider some tall (but not invasive) grasses for the area. Plant early enough in the season so they get a good start before the heat.

Sue

We planted about 35 eastern white pines in the fall of 2004 and this last winter we lost three of them and now another one is turning brown. Do you think they could have some disease? It makes me want to cry thinking of all that hard work. Help!

Deb -- Tree diseases (fungi, bugs, virus) are usually an indicator of a cultural problem, so you need to play detective and look at the dead trees very carefully, then compare them very carefully to their healthy companions. 4 out of 35 is not a bad ratio but you're right to be concerned now, find the cause, and make sure that whatever hurt these trees isn't spreading.

With young trees, the first thing to check is improper planting. Often what people will find is that the young trees that don't make it for more than a couple of years were planted too high or too low or their roots weren't properly spread and they are now strangling themselves. Occasionally, the culprit will be a big rock right under the sapling's roots. When planting this many young trees, mistakes could happen, for example the burlap or other root-wrapping got left on, still tied up. Dig up the dead ones and check the roots, etc.

Next is site and weather conditions. Are the affected trees all in one area or spread out? Could the slope, drainage, positioning of watering equipment, etc. be affecting these trees' drainage, light, etc., more than most of the other trees?

Either too wet or too dry conditions over the past two years could easily be the killer. In my part of the country, the Northeast, we had a bad, bad drought last August and September; any young trees that weren't given enough extra water were at risk. If you had these conditions, it won't be surprising if your weakest trees didn't have enough reserves to make it through the winter. Pines, of course, hate to stand in water. So the combination of drought and then a wet winter could do in the trees that had the worst drainage (e.g planted just a little lower than their mates).

Third would be condition of the stock when received, were these, by any chance, the smallest trees or in any way injured?

Fourth is some environmental cause such as the trees being girdled by a guy wire left on too long. Examine the trunk carefully for any signs of injury to the bark. The other environmental injury that is very common is over-fertilization or pesticide drift.

Since the these four trees were highly stressed out by something it is likely that the dying trees attracted predators of some kind (fungi, bugs) but don't get distracted-- generally the bugs come because the tree is in poor health, the bugs don't cause the problem. You do want to get the dead trees out of the area so whatever predators the dead tress have attracted don't spread to your healthy trees.

Lastly, check your healthy trees, starting with the ones closest to the dead ones, looking for any sign of bugs, needles yellowing out of season etc, any thing different than the other trees. This will give you some idea if any of your other trees are at risk.

I hope this helps get you started. Let me know what you find.

Sue

Sue,
Thanks! They all seemed healthy when we purchased them, they were 10-15' tall trees. I don't see any bugs and the soil is heavy but not clay and it does drain well, they are far enough from the road so it can't be salt. We were very dry but busted our buns watering last summer (makes it even more sad). We did the planting ourselves so I know the holes were large enough. I'll examine the dead trees (we did remove them) and see if I find anything out and let you know. Thanks for your help Sue!

Sue,
I checked out the dead trees and the only thing I see on them is the bark is cracked looking from the roots up about 6 - 10". I didn't see any bugs or anything else at all. On the one tree that is beginning to brown now I can't find anything except the cracked bark at the base.

~Deb

Deb -- humm -- don't know - this may be beyond my level of expertize.

Is the cracking on one side or all around?

Cracked bark could be a sign of weather damage or could be a post-problem result. Weather damage would be sun burn on south or west side where tender young bark got too much sun too quickly; in the winter, repeated night freezing and day-sun thawing can have this effect.

There's also the possibility of some injury to the bark while it was in transit or being planted.

Are dead trees near each other or spread out? and do any of the healthy trees show the cracked bark?

BTW: I am impressed by you planting so many trees this big by hand -- that was a LOT of work!

Have you thought about contacting your Agricultural extension office? They may have some good thoughts.

Sue

I have suffering eastern white pines. They are mature trees. 5 in a cluster. close to the road. The needles are thin and still yellowish here towards the end of June. The arborist thinks adding some nitrogen to the soil is a good idea. They do salt the road in winter but these pines are pretty old. They've managed to survive a lot of salt. Any furthur suggestions. I'm not happy about nitrogen since I have well water and don't want to pollute.

Thanks,
Kristine

Kristine, I'm very glad that you think twice before putting concentrated chemicals on the earth.

First thought: do the trees have a nice layer of mulch over their roots? The mulch layer, which can include the white pines' own needles, should be 1 to 3 inches, no more, no less. Mulching is the nicest thing you can do for any plant. Mulch keeps the roots cool and helps retain moisture; your soil critters break the mulch down into useful nutrients to feed the tree.

Second thought: Has something changed as the trees have grown? Normally, the arborist would notice this but they are your trees. Sometimes, when the trees get big, they get cramped in their space and aren't getting enough light, air or water. Likewise, has a structure near the trees been built or removed, thus changing the air, light and water getting to the trees? Lastly, is the soil over the tree's roots being regularly run over by feet or tires that are compacting the soil and suffocating the roots?

Third thought: I strongly recommend that you get the soil tested to see if, despite the salt, the PH is acceptable to the trees. Soil testing is actually easy and cheap (see article on my site). The research I've done says white pines can take a wide range of PH -- 4.0 to 7.0. However, if the PH is out of range, due to accumulated salt, the trees can't absorb the nutrients they need from the soil, so you can pour nitrogen on them 'til the cows come home and it won't matter.

The soil test isn't likely to show your nitrogen levels -- just PH, potassium, phosphate, soil type and amount of organic matter. If the test shows that the PH is in an OK range for a white pine, consider following the arborist's advice in a natural way by using mulch that's high in nitrogen. Fresh grass clippings, for example, are so high in nitrogen that you have to spread the clippings in a very thin layer or they start to stink and get slimy. I'd let the clippings dry then mix them in with your regular mulch, staying within the magic 1-3". You shouldn't need to add all the much grass clippings -- a 1/4 " a year ought to do it. I'm guessing on the numbers but I think I'm not far off. With nitrogen, less is best -- too much pushes the tree to grow too fast or to grow when it should be resting.

If you can plant under the trees, clover is always good to add nitrogen to the soil and so are alders.

Hope this helps

Sue

I have a question concerning my Eastern White Pine. Last year I purchased two 6 foot trees. They were planted by the nursery where I bought them. I lost one within a few months. The needles turned down starting turning brown then the tree died. Now this year the second tree started out looking great. The new growth came in and it looked wonderful. Then about two weeks ago all the needles started to droop, even the new growth.The whole tree is drooping now. Under the tree I have about an inch of red cedar mulch. I checked for bugs and found none. We have had a lot of rain recently could this be the problem? Any ideas? I really don't want to lose this tree. They are my favorite. Thank you in advance for any help or guidance you can provide.

I have an old hemlock tree that is almost bare
of it's needles. I would guess the age is 25 yrs. old. I know it's dying is it to late to
save.?

Nancy - I am so sorry about the white pines. I'm no expert but it sounds like a major root problem or a vascular disease (disease that is blocking the tree's equivalent of our veins and arteries); in any case, the tree is very sick and even if the cause can be determined, the tree would have a very hard time recovering.

I'd call the nursery immediate and have them come out and look. Check your bill of sale -- it is possible that they guaranteed the trees. In any case, they may be able to tell you what's wrong so the problem can be avoided next time. Whatever, I'd want to take a good look at the tree's roots.

Hope this helps

Sue

Al -- hemlocks are pretty tough if given their proper woodland conditions. However, they don't re-generate particularly well so if it doesn't get better in a year or two, I'd consider replacing it.

What you need to know is what's the problem and whether you can fix it. Almost always, the problem is cultural -- the place where the tree is too hot/cold, too sunny/shady; too dry/wet, or the soil is too compacted, too alkaline, etc. Trees next to structures can have problems ranging from leaf burning due to too much reflected light to partial suffocation from poor air circulation. Trees next to lawns can be damaged by lawn chemicals, lawn traffic, etc.

I suggest you read up on hemlocks and then take a very, very close look at what's going on with yours, including any changes in the area in the last few years.

Let me know if I can help more

Sue

Sue,
I planted a row of white pines last fall and all are doing well. They were about 6' when I planted them. Unfortunately one of them, the top seems to be dying off. The center spike died off first and now the smaller branches just below it seem to be dying as well. What do you recommend to do?
Thank You,
Nick

Nick -- I'd check the tree to see if there's some serious illness or if it just has white pine weevils. Look carefully as any illness may be telling you that there's an underlying more serious problem (e.g improper planting or drainage). To be safe, if the trees are under warranty, I'd have the seller check the ailing tree to make sure it's OK.

If there is no underlying problem, the tree will grow a new crown and starting to develop a unique form. If it was me, I'd be happy.

However, if your desire is for a row of prefect, matching trees, you might consider replacing the ailing one.

Sue.

I plan to buy and plant about 10 eastern pines on our new Pensylvania property which is on a sunny but very windblown hill about (800-1000 feet up)The view is panoramic with no buildings blocking it, so the winds blow very hard and cold in the winter. Any recommendations for size that I should be planting, and on what corner(s) of the property would be best as the most severe winds come from north or west- I have waited 20 years to have the chance to plant pines on my propert (note: being 45 years old I dont have several decades to wait for them to become majestic and tall-so what size should I buy...?)

ps. sorry, also what season do i plant them??? how deep?

I planted a 6 foot white pine on May 2, 2006. It looked great for two months. Now it looks droopy and is losing its dark green color. Could I be watering it too much?
W did have two weeks of very hot weather.

Sue -- it's hard to say without seeing the tree. It shouldn't stand in water or be soggy-wet. However, the heat alone could be an issue this year. Is the tree guaranteed? If so, I'd go back to the seller ASAP.

Sue

For starters, you can plant spring or fall but I'd consider spring if the location has no shelter from winter winds.

You plant at the natural tree flare level, being careful to unite and spread the roots but don't amend the soil (modern view). The new trees will need extra water their first two years.

It's hard to talk about the site without seeing it. Since this is a major investment, consider getting a professional arborist to come out for an hour and give you some advice. Someone local could also best say whether white pines are your first choice for the growing conditions on the hill.

Good luck

Sue

Thanks for responding to my question. The tree has already died, and I am really confused as to what the problem is. This is the second tree that has died in that spot. I went to a local nursery and was told that this hot summer may have been the cause. I still think it might be something underground since this is the second tree. I have 5 white pines all in a row across the back of my property up on a hill. Our soil has lots of clay as I am told. I guess I will dig it out and just leave a hole there and have only four. This tree was growing so fast for three months. I just cannot believe what happened. I know you cannot diagnose without seeing the tree. If you have any tips, let me know. The tree was not guaranteed but have learned my lesson from that. Thanks again!

Sue

_______________________

Sue -- "Dead spots" are often caused by a small gap in the watering system; equally likely is a spot where water is pooling. So watch this space carefully the next time you water.

Next thing to check is whether there's a large rock or other underground obstruction. After that, it is one of those long-term puzzlers. I know cases that took years to figure out. The cause is mostly likely something in the environment so the more you watch the space, the more likely you are to figure it out.

When you do solve the puzzle, let me know.

Good luck

Sue