TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best
March 30, 2003, Issue 53
Updated March 13, 2005, Issue 155
Updated July 23, 2006, Issue 213
Special thanks goes to Molly Dugger Brennan, of Brennan's Orchids, LLC for her generous help with this article.
Phalaenopsis are wonderful. A mature moth orchid blooms spring and, often, again in the fall; the flowers last for weeks. Just one or two blooming Phalaenopsis decorate an entire room for half the year. Indeed, moth orchids have become a bit of a decorator’s cliché because, like pearls, they go with everything. They are surprisingly easy to grow. The reward: few horticultural experiences equal to the joy of having an orchid bloom for you for the first time.
picture: “Kevin’s orchid” a Phalaenopsis blooming in my dining room March 2005. My friend Kevin sent me this fuchsia-colored orchid in October 2001, at a time when its beauty was sorely needed. It was a big, healthy plant in full bloom, and it continued blooming until May 2002. It then took a well-deserved rest until February 2003, and started over.
THE TRICK IS TO GET QUALITY PLANTS. Not everyone agrees, but for me, while many mass-market plants do fine, mass-market orchids have not done as well for me, over the long-term, as better quality plants. From what I know, I believe that the mass-market orchids are often young plants that have been pushed quickly into bloom, weakening the plant. For the same or a little more money, you can get a healthy, mature plant from a reputable dealer. A mature plant will naturally have about 4 to 6 leaves; the young ones are more likely to have only 2 or 3 leaves.
picture: close up of “Kevin’s orchid” a Phalaenopsis. They say that orchid flowers look like female insect parts in order to attract the pollinating male insects. Whatever, they certainly attract humans.
SECOND: DO NOT OVER DO IT.
DO NOT OVER-WATER. Usually watering once a week is enough; the potting mix should be almost but not completely dry. Water a bit less in winter. Also, do not get water in the plant’s crown, and do not let the plant stand in water, it will rot.
DO NOT OVER-FERTILIZE. Use half-strength or quarter-strength fertilizer weekly (skipping a week once a month) when the plant’s in active growth. I use a flower fertilizer in spring and a balanced organic fertilizer in summer and fall.
DO NOT MOVE THE PLANT AROUND. Orchids don't like moving around so it's important to choose a good spot for your Phalaenopsis and leave it there -- don't even rotate it like you would most other plants to even out their light exposure.
Phalaenopsis like indirect but bright light. The best spot is next to an east-, west- or south-facing window, with shade in summer from mid-day and late afternoon sun.
Phalaenopsis are what they call "warm-temperature" orchids. The temperature range should be between 65F at night in the winter and 85F during the day in summer. Temperatures under 60F and over 90F can harm the plant. Right next to the window, you often naturally get the 10F to 15F degree day-night temperature drop that Phalaenopsis need to set their flowers.
If you want to baby your Phalaenopsis, hang it from near the top of the window, where it feels at home, with plenty of bright light, a little direct morning sun, and rising heat during the day. Hanging Phalaenopsis do have to taken down to be watered and drained, which may be too much of a bother. (Try using a stiff bent coat hanger as a hanger, so you can get the plant down easily.)
DO RAISE THE HUMIDITY.Phalaenopsis want 40% to 70% humidity, which is hard to provide in a house, but do the best you can with a tray of moist pebbles, wetting the surface moss, etc.(see Issue 38).
DON'T OVER-CROWD. All plants benefit from circulating air. With orchids, fresh air is a must for survival. If you have a single orchid by itself gracing your widow sill, this isn't much of a concern. However, the crowded window sill needs a gentle fan (blowing enough to move the plants' leaves slightly). You can also crack the window but cold drafts are orchid killers.
DON'T USE HARD WATER My city tap water turns the bath porcelain yellow with rusty strains, turns the white laundry grey, and etches the glass in the dish washer, so you can imagine what it does for plants. Over a period of 2 to 5 years, some plants weaken and die from the minerals in the water. Wherever you live, at a minimum, it is always best to leave your water out over night to leach out the chlorine before using it on your plants. If your water is like mine, use bottled water for the more sensitive plants like palms and orchids.
MORE GROWING TIPS.
NATURAL GROWING CONDITIONS. Moth orchids are epiphytes, tree growers. This means that they like to grow high up in tree crotches, in the warm, humid tropical forest canopy with their roots dangling in open air and their leaves dotted with filtered light. The tropical rains soak the orchid but then evaporate quickly. Phalaenopsis naturally hang downward so that water doesn’t settle in the crown. Ferns and the African violet family (e.g. the fabulous, if weirdly named, streptocarpus) enjoy the same growing conditions and make good companions for your orchids which are, admittedly, a bit dull when not blooming.
picture: “Kevin’s orchid” a Phalaenopsis enjoying filtered sun light.
POTTING. Between pottings, let the new roots run around outside the pot – they like it like that. Repot Phalaenopsis only every 1 to 2 years, when the potting medium starts to rot or the active roots seem to be mostly outside of the pot. Do it after flowering.
Moth orchids like either a commercial orchid bark chip mix (large or medium texture) or commercially-prepared sphagnum moss for orchids. According to Molly Duggar Brennan, you should use only long fiber sphagnum moss made for orchids, and not the plain florists' sphagnum moss; the long fiber moss has been sterilized so it doesn't transmit disease, and the long fiber stays airy in the pot.
The pot size should usually be between 3 and 6 inches --enough space for the roots without cramming. Only very large plants will need a bigger pot to hold their roots.
Once you've gently removed the old medium, cut off any dead roots and the bottom of the underground part of the stem, if it is starting to rot. Firmly pack the new material around the roots. Water lightly for a couple of weeks after potting.
POTS. Most orchid pots have slits up the side to let air into the roots and to help the medium dry out quickly. Many growers use terra cotta pots for Phalaenopsis; some use opaque plastic pots. A newer theory is to use clear plastic so that sun gets to the roots. This works for my Phalaenopsis and for my pocket book since I can skip the cost of a pot and recycle a clear plastic food tub instead. Just remember to cut plenty of holes in the bottom and slots in the sides for air and drainage.
picture: Phalaenopsis naturally hang down from trees. Background: Potinara Hoku Gem.
FLOWERING AND POST-FLOWERING CARE
Most of the questions I get from first time Phalaenopsis owners have to do with the flowers and the tricky bit about cutting the flower stem after blooming.
Flowering time. A phalaenopsis usually holds its flowers for weeks, if not months. However, being moved while in bud or in flower can shorten the time or even cause the buds and/or flowers to drop. This is especially true if the plant got too cold, too hot or too dry in transit. So, if your new plant drops its flowers soon after you get it home, it probably wasn't your fault. To keep the flowers as long as possible, settle the plant in a spot, with good light but no direct sun, and that is as cool as possible; water when nearly dry.
POST-FLOWERING: Now, here comes the tricky part: Your orchid has dropped all its flowers and buds and there stands a naked flower stem. What to do????????
The natural way. If you let nature take its course, the flower stem will die back to either (a) to one of the nodes along the stem below the last set of flowers or (b) back to the base of the plant. You'll know the stem has died because the dead part will turn yellow or tan. (Once it dies, you can cut the dead part off.) According to Phalaenopsis expert, Molly Dugger Brennan, Brennan's Orchids, LLC , it takes about 3 months for a Phalaenopsis to form a new flowering branch off the old stem and 9 months to make a whole new flower stem. The plant will choose whether to re-bloom off the same stalk or die back depending on its age and health.
Cut back to the first non-flowering node. You can encourage re-blooming by cutting back to 1/2 inch above first node along the flower stem that is below the last set of flowers.
Cut off the whole stem If your plant is young (e.g. a mass-market plant with only 2 or 3 leaves) or not is the greatest health, the best thing to do is cut off the whole flower stem and let the plant rest.
Tubular Phalaenopsis
According to Molly Dugger Brennan, of Brennan's Orchids, LLC , normally, Phalaenopsis send out their flower stalk from between the leaves. With a normal Phalaenopsis only new leaves come out of the center of the crown. However, sometimes, due to cloning errors or cultural conditions not to the plant's liking it "goes tubular". A tubular Phalaenopsis will not re-bloom. It may produce a baby, which can have flowers when mature, but the parent itself will not flower again. CLICK HERE for an interview with Molly about tubular Phalaenopsis.
And, Kevin, thanks again for the orchid.
Picutre: Kevin's orchid at hme with a fern and an Apple Blossom Iwanagaara.
CLICK HERE for more about Phalaenopsis
CLICK HERE for more about orchids generally
Photo credits: Sue Sweeney (except as indicated) © Sue Sweeney 2006
Comments (41)
Some of the most gorgeous photos I have seen yet! Good simple orchid care advice, too, thanks.
Posted by Nancy | March 13, 2005 10:46 AM
Posted on March 13, 2005 10:46
Hi About 2 months ago I purchased a Moth Orchid/Orquidea de la Polilla/Phaleaenopsis amabilis that had about 7/8 flowers on it at the time of purchase. Within about a months time, one at time they shriveled up and fell off. My question is: 2 of the branches/stems upon which the flowers were had shriveled up as well which I've cut off and 2 have remained green and 1 has actually started rebudding. Should I have cut those dying branches off? This is my 1st plant and it was beautiful when in bloom...any feedback will be appreciated...Thanks...
Posted by anthony | April 30, 2005 11:33 AM
Posted on April 30, 2005 11:33
HELP ME PLEASE! I LOVE FLOWERS, BUT, UNFORTUNATLY I HAVE A BROWN THUMB. MY HUSBAND GAVE ME TWO BEAUTIFUL ORCHIDS THAT I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO WITH. I WATER THEM ONCE A WEEK. AND THAT IS ABOUT IT. I AM AFRAID TO MOVE THEM. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO TAKE CARE OF MY FLOWERS IN LAY-MANS TERMS. P.S. WHAT SHOULD I DO WHEN ALL OF THE FLOWERS FALL OFF? SHOULD I THROW IT AWAY? HELP!!!!!!!
Posted by BERNICE CARRERA | June 9, 2005 2:44 AM
Posted on June 9, 2005 02:44
hi, i'm a first time owner of an orchid that was given to me, i belive it's a moth orchid. it blooms 6 to seven beautiful white flowers but they've all fallen and now about two inches of the branch looks yellow and slightly turning brown, should i cut it? the soil looks like wood chips and i need advice on the correct sun exposure for my flower, it's a single branch. i get direct sun light on my balcony and may be too bright to be kept out there, the flowers only lasted a few weeks, is that normal?
Posted by rocio | June 25, 2005 12:20 PM
Posted on June 25, 2005 12:20
congratulation on the orchid. What you've seem is normal.
Cut the flower stalk off at the first node below the old flowers and keep the plant out of the direct sun.
The killer is water. Water only when dry (about once a week) and don't get water in the crown (the place where the leaves join the roots).
email me if you have more questions
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | June 26, 2005 9:43 PM
Posted on June 26, 2005 21:43
Hello,
I received a Moth orchid about 6-7 months ago. It bloomed beautifully for several weeks (unfortunately, I didn't count the days), and then the blooms fell off one by one. I did not cut back the stem, but left it not really sure what to do. I do remember to water it, but I've done little else. In the last 2-3 weeks, a new leaf is growning midway up the stem, and there seem to be more leaf "buds?" where each flower grew before. What should I do? My instinct is to let it grow. Your professional opinion please.
Elise
Posted by elise bryant | August 25, 2005 3:28 PM
Posted on August 25, 2005 15:28
Hello!
Your orchids are absolutely BEAUTIFUL!
A family member gave me a moth orchid atleast 7 months ago. At the time it was in full bloom... then a couple of weeks later the blooms died off and the stem. I cut the stem off at the base. Since then, I have seen no new stem growth. I keep looking to see if there is a new stem sprouting up.. but alas, no. How many times do these orchids bloom? Is it abnormal that I haven't seen any new stem growth?
Posted by Molly | August 28, 2005 12:57 PM
Posted on August 28, 2005 12:57
You might not see new growth other than a leaf or two until next spring. Some very happy Moths bloom spring and fall but most bloom spring only. Unless a new stalk pops out in the next couple of weeks, you probably won't get another flower stalk until Easter time.
Don't forget the 10F night-time temperature differential necessary to set the flower buds.
Good luck with your plant.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | September 15, 2005 7:30 AM
Posted on September 15, 2005 07:30
My moth orchid has been in bloom for nearly five months (since May) and just this week one of the three stalks dropped its flowers after I over watered it (before a long weekend away). I just read your comment about cutting the flowers after 6 weeks in order to preserve the plant's energy. Should I cut off the remaining flowers now even if they look fine? Should I trim back the stalk even if it is still green? It's my first orchid so any advice would be most appreciated.
p.s. The light and temperature conditions are exactly as you've suggested.
Posted by Jodie | September 18, 2005 1:06 PM
Posted on September 18, 2005 13:06
I was reading your web site and it didn't say anything about phalaenopsis. I live in Canada and its very cold here and I received a phalaenopsis from my husband but I don't know what to do with because I have to keep it inside is it similar to a orchids and I should take care of it the same please help me thanks. Carly Watson
Posted by Carly | November 4, 2005 6:40 PM
Posted on November 4, 2005 18:40
Hi! I just bought a phanalopeas orchid and the buds from my orchid started falling out in about three weeks since I bougt it. I dont know why they are dying. I keep thinking that its because of the cold weather we are having this year. But I am confused about cutting the stem of the orchid.And I dont know if its normal for my orchids stem to have a dark brown color. Is that normal. Or should the orchids stem be a green color. The stem is brown and has four green leafs and my last flower is gonna fall out. Should I just leave the orchid alone or do I have to cut the stem.
Posted by Kat | December 16, 2005 7:34 PM
Posted on December 16, 2005 19:34
Kat -- The bloom drop is probably not your fault. It's hard for an already blooming plant to move from a cozy greenhouse environment to the lesser light, warmth and humidity found in a private home. This alone can cause premature bloom drop. In addition, there's no way to know when the plant started to flower so this may be its natural bloom-ending date. The third cause would be under-watering (e.g less than once a week) or too much sun, especially at mid-day.
Cold outdoor temperatures are generally only a problem when transporting the orchid -- then make sure to wrap it up well or even a brief exposure to cold air can cause instant bud drop as well as leaf damage. Indoors, the plant needs 68F or better in the day and likes 10F drop in temperature at night.
What to do now? Normally I'd say, cut the flower stalk back to the main stalk and start building your orchid up to bloom next spring. However since the plant may not have had its full chance to bloom this time, cut the stem back to a 1/4 inch above the first leaf joint above the main stalk. Examine the cut end for a green center. If there's green inside, the stem's still alive and the plant might choose to re-bloom in a few weeks. If the stem's brown all the way through, it's dead and you might as well cut it back to the base.
Good luck with your new plant.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | December 19, 2005 10:23 AM
Posted on December 19, 2005 10:23
Hi, its Kat again that was great advice Sue thatnks for the response. That helped me a lot. But, now I am wondering what to due when I cut the stem from my orchid. I mean should I be worry about my orchid getting an infection and die. I heard that you can put wax fromn candles to stop infection or cinammon on the cut once I cut the stem is that a good idea. What is your advice please help. And I also wanted to know something more about orchids. I just bought one at the farmers market today but the stem is green and the phanalopeas are very small once they die and fall of should I cut the stem down just like the big old ones or should I just leave the orchid alone and let it get bigger. Please give me more good advice.
Posted by Kat | December 22, 2005 10:01 PM
Posted on December 22, 2005 22:01
Hello,
I just got my first Phal orchid! I love it it is very pretty. But I have a few questions. I have it in my cubicle at work and I have on top opf my file cabinet and it is in between two floresent lights each with 3 tubes in it. The plant is about 3 feet from the lights and it probably get like 165 hours of light a day. Is this good for it? My cubicle is not by a real window anywere.
Also this phal plant has TWO shoots on it. Onw is almost completely flowered only one more that is about ready to open. Then the other one is buds only. Will the plant be able to open up the second stalk of buds? Today the very last tiny bud fell off. but there are 5 still left. I hope that was normal. Maybe the plant had too many buds and it dropped one? I hope the second stalk will flower fully because that would be beautiful!
Posted by EMilia | January 19, 2006 3:35 PM
Posted on January 19, 2006 15:35
Congratulations on the orchid.
The light is fine until the orchid stops flowering. Then orchid will need a window with bright light but not mid-day sun ,and the night time temperature drop of 10F that it must have to set next year's buds.
You may loose some or all of the buds. Plants don't take kindly to being relocated while in bud or flower and can react by dropping the buds and flowers all over the floor. This is especially true when the plant goes when a nice humid greenhouse to an office with near-zero humidity. However, it's not all bad as bud drop now lets the plant conserve energy to make even nicer flowers next year.
You can help by watering the plant only when dry and by raising its humidity (see the various articles on my site about this). Don't worry about fertilizer until the flowering is done.
Good luck
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | January 20, 2006 9:02 AM
Posted on January 20, 2006 09:02
hi ive just received a orchid for valentines day and im still not sure where to cut the stalk after it finishes blooming and how often do i fertilize.
Posted by bonnie | February 17, 2006 4:30 PM
Posted on February 17, 2006 16:30
Bonnie-
I'm assuming that you got a moth orchid ((PHALAENOPSIS) -- Lucky woman!
Fertilizer -- Use diluted fertilizer weekly (skipping a week once a month) when the plant’s in active growth. I use a flower fertilizer in early spring and a balanced organic fertilizer in summer and fall. No need to start the fertilizer for a couple of weeks.
Cutting the stem -- when the plant finishes blooming, if you want to keep the plant and re-bloom next year, cut the stem all the way off. If you only want to see how much flower you can get now and then will toss the plant, cut the stem a little bit above the bottom node on the stem (the first tiny leaf-like bump on the stem above the leaves).
The latter procedure will usually leave you with 2" to 5" of stem. This stem may turn brown and die or after a while you might get a new flower bud out of it.
Good luck.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | February 19, 2006 6:53 PM
Posted on February 19, 2006 18:53
hi i got my first phalaenopsis orchidee at the week end and it says that when the flower dies to cut it at the eye, WHERE IS THE EYE please help.
Posted by carriann | April 10, 2006 8:04 PM
Posted on April 10, 2006 20:04
My grandma has recently gotten 2 phalaenopsis orchid on one of the all the flowers fell off, but the other still has all its flowers. What should we do with the one with no flowers, is this when you were saying to cut the stem back? Do you cut the whole stem off or just where the flowers were?
Posted by Becky | April 12, 2006 4:40 PM
Posted on April 12, 2006 16:40
Becky -- you can either cut the stem back all the way or cut it to just above the first leaf node on the stem -- depends on whether you want to try to re-bloom the plant now then toss it or keep it as a house plant and try to get it to re-bloom next year. See site for more details.
Enjoy the orchid
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | April 12, 2006 6:08 PM
Posted on April 12, 2006 18:08
Hi,Guys!
A few weks ago i received Phalaenopsis Taisuco Kochdian 'Crownfox Sugarloaf'from my boyfriend! But i dont know any knowledge about caring the flowers plants.Is it good that one of the leaves are little bit yellowish green. And also if there are any people knowing about this flower. When do we give this flower to somebody? Is there any meaning connecting with this flower!
Thanks, Guys!
Posted by dina | April 18, 2006 10:49 AM
Posted on April 18, 2006 10:49
Dina -- congratulations on your new orchid. I hope the general information the site helps you care for the plant.
A leaf turning yellow or brown is OK if it's a bottom leaf -- that's normal aging. But it it is a new top leaf, that bad -- it's sign of some serious health problem, often over watering or water left to sit in the crown.
Moth orchids have been cultivated in the West for about 175 years but have only been popularly available for about 30 years. The general Internet lore is that orchids stand for "Love, Beauty, Refinement", and is the Chinese Symbol for Many Children. I don't know if there's any basis for this.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | April 23, 2006 11:15 AM
Posted on April 23, 2006 11:15
Hi Sue,
Your site is so helpful, I just recieved my first
Dendrobium and a Phalaenopsis was just sent to me as
a gift yet to arrive.
The dendrobium, within the last two weeks, has opened three flowers and looks amazing but has lost one leaf that was yellow and dying and has another one that is yellowing at the bottom. I am extremely careful with it each day, making sure it does not get too much light, watering only once a week when i am sure it is dry, and lightly misting the flowers just to help with humidity because the air is so dry where i live and no water enters the leaves base; is there anything to ensure that this plant lasts. I feel like such a novice and I am in love with her.
Also, would you have any pointers on how to make my blushing bride phalaen. ajust well when she arrives from california to the east coast? I am sure the travel will be a little hard for her and I dont want her to get sick or drop her flowers to quickly? Thanks a bunch!
Liz
Posted by Lizette | April 28, 2006 1:10 AM
Posted on April 28, 2006 01:10
Dear Sue,
Thanks so much for your response. I am happy to say that my blushing bride phal. is doing really well, she only dropped two older flowers and two more have opened beautifully. I was confused about the fertilizing though. Do i fertilize very very weakly once a week with a balanced fertilizer all the time now (except one week) or do i wait till she has no more flowers?
Also i am not sure what to do with me dendrobium. It turns out that it is a phalaenopsis dendrobium. I put her on the window ledge all except from between 11-3pm but her she has lost another leaf. Then i accidently fertilized very very weakly on dry wood chips and now two more of her leaves are yellowing really quickly and another one has brownish stripes running through it. I dont know what to do. I waited and then ran fresh spring water through her completely the following week but i am not sure if it is too much sun that is doing this or if she got fertilizer burn. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Liz
Posted by Lizette St. Hilaire | May 26, 2006 9:56 AM
Posted on May 26, 2006 09:56
Liz --
As to the dendrobium, she's probably reacting to change more than anything else. Make sure she's pretty dry before watering, skip the fertilizer for a few weeks, and let her settle down in one place-- orchids don't like being moved. If she's getting too much sun her leaves will get too green or even burn.
As to the blushing bride phal. -- I give my phals a very weak balanced fertilizer March through Oct , skipping a week every now and then, and then a very, very weak organic (higher first number) in the winter. The trick, more than anything is to use a light hand with the fertilizer and water. It doesn't hurt to skip fertilization altogether, especially when the plant is resting. Dendrobiums don't get fertilized when they are dormant (the bulbs swell).
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | May 29, 2006 12:52 PM
Posted on May 29, 2006 12:52
Hi, I've had my moth orchid for three months now, all the flowers have fallen off except for 4 on one stem. i'm wondering if I might be overwatering mine. The leaves seems to be drooping and the main stalk at the top is starting yellow and die I think, what should I do?
Posted by Alyssa | June 12, 2006 12:12 PM
Posted on June 12, 2006 12:12
Alyssa -- For the flowers to stay on 3 months after being moved is pretty good -- indeed it's enough and the plant deserves a rest. The flower stalk of a phalaenopsis will die back after the flowers are gone .
Dropping indicates that the leaves are not getting enough water. This could be because the plant is too hot and transpiring (sweating) constantly , you're not keep it in mid-day sun, are you?
Otherwise, it means the plant is not getting enough water from the roots. This could be under watering or root damage (often from over watering; sometimes from under watering). With phals, over watering root damage is most likely. What I would do: let the plant get nice and dry; then give it a good 15 minute soaking in a bucket (keep the crown dry and no fertilizer until it's off the sick-list). If the plant perks right up, it was just too dry.
If there's no change, or just a little improvement you might have root damage. This has to be handled carefully.
First, check the pot to make sure that the plant is getting enough air around the roots. The plant is best in a pot with slits up the sides. You can make one, cheap, out of a plastic grocery store food-tub the size of the current pot, clear plastic, if possible. Gently easy the plant into the new pot, disturbing the roots as little as possible. You can gently cut off dead roots that you can easily see. (You can properly re-pot with fresh medium, etc., when the plant is feeling better).
Now, with root damage, the plant can't take up very much water at once and if given too much, the rest of the roots will rot. However, since it can't take up make water at once, it needs more frequent watering. Experts differ on what to do but I'd water well when very dry and add little bit of water, particularly on exposed roots, about half-way through the cycle. Be very patient as it will take a few weeks for new roots to grow -- what you don't want to see is further signs of decline. Sometimes, by the time you can see the damage, it's too late to save the plant or it might take years to recover. In such cases, consider tossing the plant.
Extra humidity around the leaves would be good to reduce transpiration but you want to the potting medium to dry out ASAP and all orchids need circulating air. You can try draping a clear plastic bag over the leaves but keep the bag above soil level, leave the bottom open, and replace the bag with a clean, dry bag frequently. I, personaly, don't do this for orchids since they are too fussy about their fresh air and dry soil.
Hope this helps
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | June 21, 2006 2:50 PM
Posted on June 21, 2006 14:50
Hi Sue,
I am taking care of a Phalaeonopsis for a friend... at first it was doing great - it bloomed, and I cut it back at the nearest node when the last flower fell off. Then the flower stem turned yellow and then brown, and now the yellow/brown is moving down the main stem.
Please help! I'll be sad if it dies :(
Thanks,
Diana
Posted by diana | June 23, 2006 10:35 PM
Posted on June 23, 2006 22:35
I just recently had a orchid house built. Could you advise me how to get rid of the mealybugs and scale. Is there a automatic system that can take care of this and what chemical do i use to get this under control
Posted by Lee Haywood | June 24, 2006 10:16 AM
Posted on June 24, 2006 10:16
Lee -- I can see that you're learning, like the rest of us, and I hope this will help you protect your health and that of your children, pets, and plants:
I don't use chemicals to kill plant or house bugs and urge others to refrain from doing so as well. In my view, all pesticides are dangerous; none have been properly tested since Science doesn't know how to do the tests at a reasonable cost and in a reasonable time under real-world conditions, including interactions between substances and long-term residual effects. Then, when we get cancer, Parkinson's, and mysterious "fatigues", the scientists throw up their hands and say that there are so many chemicals in the environment, that there's no way they can conclusively tell what is causing the problem. This applies to items labeled "organic" as well - don't be fooled. "Natural" doesn't make the substance safe if the substance kills stuff. See my site and the Internet generally for more information.
I feel that it is bad for the planet, and all those on it, to release these dangerous chemicals under any circumstances, and that there is no ethical way to justify their use just to make pretty flowers or velvety lawns.
The best way, I think, to control plant pests is by raising healthy plants that fight the pests off on their own. The first sign of an insect pest should be a welcome message to you from the plant that it is not fully happy and need more (or less) heat, water, circulating air, humidity, light, better potting, etc.
The best thing to control pests is a weekly shower-bath that rinses off any passing insects. In a greenhouse, you can also enlist ladybugs and other beneficial predator insects to help you.
If you have a specific infection, isolate the sick plants and wash them well, with sponge, every 3 days (as the new eggs hatch) for a few weeks. Some people use rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap. Plain dish washing soap is also OK. In all cases, wash the residue off the plants and don't breathe the insecticidal soap fumes -- use a mask.
If a plant is badly infected, it is very sick. Consider tossing it, since even if you do "cure" it of the bugs with a lot of hand labor, it may take years for it to recover its health enough to bloom.
Hope this helps and good luck with the orchid house.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | June 24, 2006 11:28 AM
Posted on June 24, 2006 11:28
Sue, I have my first moth orchid it is nearly a year old. I have repotted it and it is shooting new roots out on the top of the potting bark. My question is it has started putting out leaves on different parts of the stem. I hve learned today from reading your answers I should of cut back. But being my first I didn't know. Are these new leaves new plants can they be potted? I know lots of questions. But I would appreciate any info you can give me.
Posted by Katie Watkins | June 25, 2006 5:21 PM
Posted on June 25, 2006 17:21
Hi Sue - My Phalaeonopsis is about 3 years old... it bloomed once (finished blooming about 6 weeks ago, at which point I cut it back at the nearest node when the last flower fell off). Then the flower stem turned yellow and then brown, and now the yellow/brown is moving down the main stem. I would rally appreciate any tips or advice on what to do now.
Posted by Diana Sen | June 25, 2006 7:28 PM
Posted on June 25, 2006 19:28
Diana -- As far as I can tell, you're OK so far. When you cut the flower stem off at the first node, sometimes the plant will re-bloom but some times the stalk dies. It isn't real good for a young plant to be forced to rebloom like this -- it drains too much energy. It's actually better for the plant that the entire flower stem's dying -- this will allow the plant to rest up for blooming this fall or next spring.
If the plant was purchased from a florist this year, it probably won't need re-potting until after it blooms next.
Read over the article on my site for general tips on how to take care of the orchid; then if you have any questions about light, water, or what not, let me know.
Good luck!!
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | June 26, 2006 7:32 PM
Posted on June 26, 2006 19:32
hi,
I have some phals and they finished flowering 2 months or so ago... but now they have some new growth coming from where the stem of the flower used to join with the rest of the leaves. The weird thing is there are these little whitish spidery root-like things coming from them and I dont know whether to remove the new growth and re-pot it or to just let it stay ... help I'm not good with plants
Posted by michelle | July 6, 2006 8:04 PM
Posted on July 6, 2006 20:04
Hi Sue! Thanks so much for taking the time to help us with our orchid questions! My mom bought me 1 and herself 2 earlier this year (March/April?). Like everyone else they bloomed and browned. My mom cut her stems all the way off and lost all but 2 leaves. I cut my stem about half-way cause it was still a little green but now it's turned. It looks great (except a couple leaves have splits) and I've gotten two new leaves without losing any. I've also only fertilized it once, earlier this week, my mom was told just twice a year. My questions: My mom was told it needed to be repotted (it came in a small plastic pot inside a bigger terra cotta) but you just told Diana it probably wouldn't need it til next year; do I replant it and where can I find the moss for when I do? And since it has started turning yellow/brown should I cut the stem again down to the base? Your help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Liz :)
Posted by Liz | July 10, 2006 4:36 PM
Posted on July 10, 2006 16:36
Hello,
I have about 25 orchids of all types. They range in age from 2-14 years. I am planning a move from VT to AZ and would love some advice on how to transport them safely. I would hate to lose even one!
How should they be packed?
Should I ship them via Priority Mail?
Should I pack them to ship with the moving company?
Should I try and drive a car myself and carry them with me?
Thank you for your help!
David
Posted by David | July 14, 2006 12:27 PM
Posted on July 14, 2006 12:27
hey sue!
it seems like you have answered this same question a dozen times, (and covered the material in the initial post) and i'm sorry for asking it again.
you say that after 6 weeks, the flowers should be pruned if they haven't fallen off on their own. my phal was blooming when i got it, about 5 weeks ago, so it seems like now is the time to cut her back. i like this flower very much, and want it to be healthy and happy, so i should cut it back "to the base," but is that the base of the flower, or the base stem where all the flowers come from, or all the way back down to the crown?
again, i'm sorry for asking such a repeted question, but i really don't want to force it to overproduce at the cost of longevity any more than i want to cut it back too much and hurt it..
thanks!
Posted by scott | July 15, 2006 1:38 AM
Posted on July 15, 2006 01:38
iz --
On potting: Many moth orchids, before sale, are potted up in the largest pot that the seller can put the plant in and still keep it healthy. This makes the plant look more impressive and also means that it's likely to live longer if the new owner doesn't know about transplanting.
Your orchid may, of course, be an exception. Re-potting with fresh potting mix should be done soon after flowering about every two years. The new roots will mostly come in above pot-level and wander around in the air. If you don't have aerial roots, your plant was probably recently transplanted.
If the plant has a correct potting medium and is in a pot that lets the water drain fully, but is drying out so much that it needs watering more than once a week or the leaves shrivel, it needs a bigger pot; if it's not getting almost fully dry in a week, it needs a smaller pot.
Moths can be potted in either a bark chip mix for orchids or sphagnum moss. I use a medium-size bark chip mix with a top inch of moss so I can wet the moss frequently to give the plant more humidity and because the moss keeps the bark chips from floating when I sink the pot in pail for watering. Many people put a few Styrofoam packing "peanuts" in the bottom of the pot for extra air and drainage.
You can buy the sphagnum moss or an orchid wood chip mix (usually chips, charcoal and may be a third ingredient) at most garden supply centers; sometimes your supermarket or hardware store will carry the products. You can also buy on-line. In all cases, it makes sense to compare prices as some sellers will add a hefty mark-up.
It is best to wear disposable plastic gloves when handling the potting mix and, afterward, clean up as you would after handling raw meat.
On stem cutting: once the stem has turned yellow, then brown, it's dead, so you might as well cut it back but, of course, don't have to.
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | July 24, 2006 3:27 PM
Posted on July 24, 2006 15:27
David -- sorry but I can't advise on shipping plants.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | July 24, 2006 3:27 PM
Posted on July 24, 2006 15:27
Got a question? Please read the articles on the site first (they aren't that long!), but then feel free to post a comment. Please keep in mind that TheMondayGarden.com is reader-supported (we don't cover the site with ads, so yu can see the text). So please make your next amazon.com purchase via the site or, if you wish, you can make a contribution through the Amazon Honor System.
Sue
Posted by S. W. Sweeney | July 24, 2006 3:46 PM
Posted on July 24, 2006 15:46
I have own my Phalaenopsis more than a year now. It's the second-time blossom after i've got it.
The way it blossom is 2-3 flowers at the times... but it keep on giving flowers from the same stem almost a year now.
I wonder why it doesn't have a 'big' blossom like the first time. On the other hand, the lowest leave is getting dry out... but still no new leaf appear. Does this concern with the long blossoming time?
Thank you.
Posted by Tria | August 10, 2006 6:06 PM
Posted on August 10, 2006 18:06