TheMondayGarden.com

Why shrubs? Shrubs and small trees are great value for the time and money invested. Since they have woody stems that don't die in the winter, even the non-evergreen shrubs provide winter interest as well as beauty for spring, summer and fall. Shrubs are large enough that just a few can make an attractive, fuss-free garden with minimum expense.

Because shrubs are smaller than full-size trees, you can have mature specimens gracing the yard or balcony fairly quickly and cheaply. Shrubs can be left to slowly grow into small trees. Alternatively, many shrubs can be kept small with bi-annual pruning; those that root sucker can be keep in bounds with a root barrier.

(What the difference between a shrub and a small tree? The line is fuzzy, but, generally, shrubs are multi-stemmed and don’t get quite as big.)

PICTURE: Native swamp rose at the Bartlett Arboretum. Stamford CT Summer, 2005.

Why go native? The simple answer is that native plants are the ones that thrive without human intervention. Hardy natives require little artificial life support, which means fewer chemicals in Stamford streams, less draw on our water supply, and more free time for the gardener.

• No chemicals required. Because native shrubs evolved here, they do act as host for a variety of native insects and smaller organisms. However, as long as the native plant is situated where it has its familiar light, drainage and soil conditions, it will fight off the small critters on its own. There is seldom a need for pesticides, which can kill off the good bugs with the bad, and which can be very dangerous if misused. A balanced insect population is desirable since insects pollinate the plants, clean up decaying material, and feed the birds. Also, many insects are predators which keep the other bugs in check.

• Likewise, there is little need to spend money and labor on concentrated fertilizers, organic or otherwise, which can wash off the lawn and into that irreplaceable resource, the Long Island Sound. Our native plants are happy in plain local soil, rocky as it is, with a top dressing of organic mulch such as wood chips or compost.

• The wild creatures need it. Fifty years ago, it was said that we shouldn't feed the birds and small furry critters because they would get "dependant". Today, so much of their habitat has been taken over by humans that, like it or not, the small ones are dependent on us to provide food and shelter.

• Many non-native plants are an environmental threat: The caveat, though, on feeding the wild folk is that what the birds and squirrels eat, they spread into our remaining wild areas. If the plant comes from a foreign source, then the foreign plant's seeds will end up in Mianus Gorge, Rosa Hartman Park, Cove Island, and Stamford's other nature sanctuaries.

• Seed-bearing non-native plants sold as "fast growing, hardy, spread quickly" often end up out-compete the native plants in the wild. Invasive foreign plants are a huge local issue. Gardeners can help by planting native. Yes, we could save the wilds by planting only sterile things without seeds, nuts or fruit, but what would the critters eat?

PICTURE: Native arrowwood viburnum at the Bartlett Arboretum. Stamford CT Fall, 2005.

How to choose? The ideal bush would a native that provides bird food and shelter, looks good all year, survives heat, cold, droughts and floods, self-prunes, stays the desired size without much work, and is pest-resistant. While that sounds like a lot to ask for, there are actually over two dozen good choices.

Start with a survey. If an area is planted with too many of the same plant, the environment suffers and so does the plant. An over-abundance of one kind of plant (called a "monoculture") allows the plants' predators, including insects and diseases, to have a field day, and, before you know it, the plants are all suffering from some dread disease.

Likewise, no plant is a prefect source of food and shelter for all the critters, or beauty for us, all the time. Creating the greatest possible mix (what the environmentalists call "biodiversity") naturally controls the pests and gives the garden and our wildlife the best of each plant. Also, when the plants flower, fruit, and shed leaves at different times, gardening work is spread out into manageable pieces.

So check around your neighborhood to see what's missing. If there are already productive nut trees; seed-bearing herbaceous plants; thick hollies, rhododendron, and conifers for winter cover; and clover, common blue violets, and other greens to keep the rabbits out of the garden; then berries for the birds and squirrels would be a good addition.

PICTURE: Native silky dogwood along the Mill River riverwalk at Scalzi Park. Stamford CT Summer, 2005.

Check the site. Matching the plant to its preferred light, moisture, and soil conditions is the most important part of gardening. Put "the right plant in the right place" and the rest easy. Fortunately, the plants come labeled at the nursery with their light and moisture requirements, but you need to know your site. If necessary, delay choosing your shrubs until you are sure about your growing conditions. While shrub planting can start as soon as the ground has thawed, planting can go on until early June, and still give the new shrub time to adjust before mid-summer heat arrives.

• Light: Some plants need full sun; many native shrubs like the partial shade of the forest understory; a few are happy in full shade. Since the sun's angle changes, since trees grow and shed leaves, and since structures cast shadows, understanding the light in your garden can be a bit trickery. The right question is: when does the area get sun in the summer? "Full sun" means that the area gets direct sun for the entire 6 hours between 10:00 A.M. to 4 P.M., even in midsummer when the trees are leafed out. "Full shade" means no direct, unfiltered sun between the same hours.

• Between full sun and complete shade, there are many degrees of part shade but most part-shade plants want 3 to 4 hours of direct light. The soft morning sun from the east is better for the understory forest types that don't do well in full sun; the bright sun of mid-day and the often harsh western afternoon sun are better for plants that can handle either part-shade or full sun.

• Moisture: Why invest time and money in a plant that will die the next time we have drought-related water restrictions? One of the best parts about native plants is that they are adapted to local moisture conditions. They generally don't need supplemental water, after their first two years.

• Some of local plants, though, have adapted to drier open forest and meadow conditions and others to the moister swamp and stream-side conditions. Most native plants can tolerate more moisture in spring but only the bog plants can survive standing in water for any length of time.

• Soil: Generally, if the soil is the right PH, and well mulched, native shrubs require no further fertilizing or soil amendments. Stamford soil is naturally acidic and high in organic material. However, your yard may consist of imported top soil or the soil may suffer from past abuse. It is surprisingly easy and inexpensive to get a soil test. The UConn Master Gardeners at the Bartlett would be glad to walk you through the process. (See below for contact information).

Check your yard to see how much light and moisture you actually have. If you are very lucky, your yard will have both moist and dry places, each with both sun and shade. Then, you can have every native shrub that suits your fancy. If the whole yard has only one set of conditions, you can plant for those conditions. Alternatively, you can improve your bio-diversity by, for example, making part of a dry area into a rain garden, or shading part of a sunny area with fence or trellis.

A note on mulch: Mulching is the best thing that you can do for your plants. Mulch holds in the moisture, cools and protects the roots, and the small soil critters break it down and mix it into the earth to feed your plants.

Now, pick your plants: Keep in mind that the most important consideration after matching light and moisture is variety. What will look best year around, and be best for the critters, is variety in height, color, blooming time, fruiting time, leaf color, etc.

Garden design: The standard garden design practices that keep variety from becoming visual chaos are: have at least 3 of most plants (unless the garden is very small); plant in groupings that repeat in different parts of the garden; and limit the flower color of half the plants to any third of the color spectrum. For a natural look, group plants together, plant in odds numbers, and add a few rocks. If you're not blessed with the right rocks, you can buy them from the stone and brick yards south of town.

PICTURE: Native maple-leaf viburnum at the Bartlett Arboretum. Stamford CT April, 2005.

BEST PICKS

Crabapple (Malus, sp.): full sun; moisture: average. Crabapples are fantastic "have it all" for those who have a sunny spot for a small tree and who can tolerate a few pests. Look for the newer hybrids that are more pest resistant and have wonderful fall leaf color to add to the gorgeous flowers and fruit. The fruit remains on the tree over the winter, looking great against the snow and providing "winter survival" food. Often, last year's fruit provides a March home-coming feast for our returning robins and a way-side meal for cedar waxwings and other birds going north for the summer. You can spot our lovely, tough, local native, the Sweet Crabapple, in Stamford's downtown alleys as well as along the beach and at the edge of the upland woods.

Hawthorn (Crataegus, sp.): full sun; moisture: average. Hawthorns are the "little black dress" of suburban landscaping; tough, urban small trees that go anywhere, with white flowers in spring and bright red berries which persist into winter. There are many native and imported species as well as garden hybrids. Native and naturalized hawthorns grow wild at the edge of Stamford's wooded areas, and in vacant lots downtown.

Shadblow (Serviceberry) (Amellanchier, sp.): full sun to part shade; moisture: average. Shad is so beloved that it has many common names and garden hybrids. The white apple-like flowers appear early in the season next to the pond at the Bartlett Arboretum and Gardens, and along the river bank at Scalzi park. The fruit, which looks like tiny apples, is munched up as soon as it ripens in summer.

Blueberries (Vaccinium, sp.): part shade to full sun; moist but well drained soil, not overly drought-tolerant. Low-bush (Vaccinium angustifolium) and high bush (Vaccinium corymbosum) blueberries can be found in Stamford's wooded areas. Generally, the bushes don't self-pollinate but with two plants, you'll get fruit on both. Low bush blueberries are best with morning through mid-day sun. The high-bush is better than the low bush in full sun. The low bush, particularly, is a bit of a wimp -- it needs protection from crowding by other garden plants but is great in a rock garden with enough moisture. Blueberries want very acid, moist but well drained soil so mix peat and sand in the planting hole. The best part of blueberries may be the striking fall foliage but then there are the delicate spring twigs, the small white flowers, and the pretty birds eating the fruit. There are many hybrids, so you can extend the fruiting season by choosing early, mid-season and late fruiting plants.

Viburnums: part shade to full sun, moisture: average to bog. Viburnums are very popular native shrubs for the garden. There are many native and hybrids forms. Stamford's dominate native variety is the Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), a stunning, hardy native with clusters of white flowers in late spring, and blue berries in summer. The decorative leaves look pleated and have serrated margins. Arrowwood grows along the Mill River, in the Red Maple Wetlands at the Bartlett, and in many Stamford yards. The Maple-leaf Viburnum is a small cousin for the deep-shade garden that you'll find throughout Stamford's up-land woods.

Dogwoods (Cornus, sp.): part shade to full sun, moisture: average to bog. Sadly, the native Flowering Dogwood that graces so many Stamford yards, and our open woods, is now under threat due to an imported fungal disease. It shouldn't be planted except in ideal growing conditions -- morning sun, wind protection, well-drained, acidy soil high in organic matter, with lots of mulch, and a bit of supplemental water during droughts.

There are also bush-type native dogwoods with clusters of small white flowers in spring and blue (or red) berries in the summer. The blue-berried Silky Dogwood (Cornus amomum) is the dominate shrub along parts of the Mill River, look for its red winter twigs along the southern half of the riverwalk at Scalzi Park The Silky Dogwood likes sun and wet. Its very popular kin, the Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea), has been hybridized for ordinary garden conditions and is also prized for its red winter twigs.

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata): part shade to full sun, moisture: average to bog. Stunningly beautiful, Winterberry is the native holly that breaks the rules by shedding its leaves in the winter. This, however, allows an even better view of the striking red berries that persist in winter. Winterberry is prevalent in North Stamford in the wetter and sunnier parts of wooded areas but also can be seen along dry woodland roadsides. Like all hollies, winterberry has separate male and female plants and the females bear the decorative fruit. There are numerous garden hybrids.

The evergreen American Holly (Ilex opaca) is seen in Stamford yards but prefers a warmer climate. Some of the hardier, foreign holly hybrids can be a better Stamford landscaping choice but may have a tendency to naturalize. If your heart is set on an American Holly, give it part shade and winter wind protection.

Elderberry (Caprifoliaceae sambucus): sun to part shade; moisture: average to bog. Elderberry, once made into a "tonic" wine, is now a trendy "plant for the future" due to the high anti-oxidant value of the berries. This tall, bushy swamp shrub has fresh green composite leaves, lacy clusters of white flowers, and dark red-purple summer berries that disappear almost before they are ripe. The garden hybrids do well in average moisture and can handle part shade.

Wild Rose (Rosa, sp.): full sun; moisture: average. Some gardeners have to have a rose despite powdery mildew, black spot, Japanese beetles, rose thrips, etc., etc. If you choose a garden hybrid of wild native rose and give it ideal conditions, you can skip the chemicals, fuss, and bother.

To be fair to the rose, don’t plant it unless you can give it the full 6-hours of mid-day sun, adequate moisture in well-drained rich soil, and plenty of air circulation to ward off powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. If you want to see a wild rose in all its untended glory, the swamp rose along the boardwalk in the Red Maple Wetlands at the Bartlett is magnificent. The pest-free Rosa Rogosa is a common sight along the Stamford shore but is also on the State of Connecticut's invasive foreign plant list.

THE RUNNERS UP (they are all good in the right place): alder, azalea, bayberry, black raspberries, buttonbush, hemlock, mountain laurel, pussy willow, red mulberry, river birch, smooth hydrangea, spice bush, sweet pepper, sumac, and witch hazel.

PICTURE: Native shad a/k/a serviceberry a/k/a shadblow at Scalzi Park . Stamford CT April 2005.

PICTURE: Native winterberry at the Bartlett Arboretum. Stamford CT October, 2005.

NOTES:

Winter cover: A few thick cozy evergreens are important for winter habitat. Good native evergreen shrub choices for sheltered, part-shade include hemlock and mountain laurel, and, for sun, juniper.

Apples and junipers: Crabapples, hawthorn, and shad are from the apple family and time-share a fungal rust disease with the junipers. Rust results in ugly fruit and leaves on the apple family trees in a wet year. While fungal spores can be blown quite some distance, planting these two families close together makes the problem worse.

White-tailed deer: In the author's view, there's no "cure" for the hungry deer problem other than a government-sponsored program to manage the overly-enhanced deer population via birth control. Meanwhile, you can protect the best of your yard treasures to a degree with fencing and sprays (if applied after every rain).

Where to Buy: Many native shrubs are available at area plant nurseries. Wherever you live, your local arboretum or public garden is likely to have a plant sale around Mother's Day; these sales are often good sources of unusual plants and native plants. (If you live in Stamford, the Bartlett Arboretum Spring Plant Sale is scheduled for May 13, 2006). Some of the less common items can be obtained from mail order catalogues and/or via the internet but be sure the check to the dealer's credentials. The New England Wildflower Society (newfs.org) is a well-known source for native plants.

STAMFORD CONNECTICUT RESIDENTS: LEARN MORE ABOUT NATIVE SHRUBS AND GARDENING NOTE: If you live elsewhere, your town probably has similar resources; perhaps this checklist will give you an idea or two about where to look.

WALK IN:

UConn Master Gardener Plant Clinic at the Bartlett Arboretum and Gardens, 151 Brookdale Road, Stamford, CT 06903, contact: Regina Campfield (203) 322-6971 (public transportation: take the #31 High Ridge bus to Brookdale Road). The free plant clinic is open May 18 - Sept. 30, 10:00 A.M. - 2:00 P.M., Monday -Thursday for phone calls and walk-in. Year round, you can stop by to pick up a soil testing brochure or drop off a sample of plant material (include your name and phone number and as much information as possible about the plant). If you drop off a sample or leave a phone message off-season, the Master Gardeners will get back to you as time permits.

Plant Nurseries: Most area plants nurseries offer at least basic gardening advice. As public interest in native plants and eco-gardening grows, the nurseries are developing expertise as well.

RADIO:

Lenny Scinto, a manager at Designs by Lee in North Stamford and host of the "The Garden Show" on Stamford's WSTC 1400 AM and Norwalk's WNLK 1350 AM, answers gardening questions, Saturday 9:00-10:00 A.M. Lenny has, time and again, earned the thanks of the Stamford gardening community for up-dating us on eco-safe products.

INTERNET/PHONE:

UConn's Home & Garden Center (www.canr.uconn.edu/garden) general information and soil test information: (877) 486-6271; the plant data base: www.hort.uconn.edu/plants.

The Connecticut Agricultural Experimental Station (www.caes.state.ct.us) general information and soil test information: (203) 974-8500

Connecticut Botanical Society (www.ct-botanical-society.org) and theMondayGarden.com offer pictures and cultural advice on native plants.

STAMFORD CLASSES:

Gardening 101 with the Master Gardeners: beginning March 15 at Westhill, 3 sessions, Wed 6:00-8:00 P.M. contact: Continuing Education at the Adult Learning Center 369 Washington Blvd Stamford CT 06902, (203) 977-4209; www.stamford.k12.ct.us/Schools/AdultEducation.asp

Bartlett Arboretum and Gardens: has programs through out the year ranging from half-day, single-topic sessions, and the summer nature camp for kids, to the UConn Master Gardener Program; contact : Bartlett Arboretum and Gardens, 151 Brookdale Road, Stamford, CT 06903, (203) 322-6971; www.bartlettarboretum.org.