TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best
June 4, 2006, Issue 208 this article updates and replaces Issue 54.
GARLIC MUSTARD: THE INVADER'S EDGENEWS FLASH: MAY 2007: BEST WAY TO CONTROL: Cut the flower steams to ground (not half way up), once the flower blooms. You have a 90% chance new flower stem will not re-grow. Black bag the cut stems and leave in the sun to sterilize. Ignore the plants -- a large percent of the first year seedlings will die on their own. The plant is bi-annual so second year plants will also die on their own. By not pulling up the plants, and not disturbing the ground, you have best chance of of not encouraging more seedlings of this and other invasives. END NEWS FLASH.
Invasive critters, like the Asian Longhorn beetle, can sneak in the country uninvited. However, foreign plants generally need to entice humans into importing them. In the case of garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata), early European immigrants valued this biennial member of the mustard family because it tastes, well, like garlic. Adding to its assets, garlic mustard is high in vitamins A and C, and only too easy to grow in moist part-shade (e.g. most of our forest understory, shaded roadsides and hedge-rows.). As an evergreen, it is readily available in fresh form all winter, which was a particularly good thing before supermarkets. While there is no direct proof, it is believed that garlic mustard came into North America with the European settlers. There are records of it here in the 1800's.
Picture: A cotton-tailed rabbit surrounded by invasive garlic mustard, mugwort, and burdock, none of which are food to him. If this is what's left of the wild, what's he supposed to eat? Meanwhile, the lack of predators gives the invasives a competitive advantage over the rabbit's proper native food. Cummings Park, Stamford, CT June 2006. But being likable isn�t enough to get the title "invader"; being likable by humans just gets a human to put you in the garden. Being "weedy" or "aggressive" in the garden isn't enough, either - that just gets you pulled up. To be invasive, the plant has to be able to escape the garden on its own, spread fairly quickly over a wide area, and beat out the local, wild competition by hogging the light, water, nutrients, and space. Garlic mustard is good at this. Garlic mustard has already infested all the USA except the southern border where it is too hot for the garlic mustard's seeds to germinate. Also, parts of the Northwest are still free of garlic mustard. The plant is also a pest in Southern Canada. It has the distinction of making the noxious weed list in 45 states at last count. Unfortunately, garlic mustard�s direct competitors include our beloved woodland wildflower flowers such as spring beauty, wild ginger, bloodroot, toothwort (wild, native mustards), Dutchman's breeches, hepatica, and trillium.
Picture: Second-year garlic mustard in bloom April 2006. Downtown Stamford CT. The red bug is an invasive European lily leaf beetle, lurking in the garlic mustard which is near some lilies. These beetles are harmful and should be hand-picked and destroyed. No predators: Even more unfortunately, part of the "invaders' edge" is the lack of predators. Garlic mustard, for example, has no known, significant local predators. Our insects won't eat it; even the white-tailed deer leave it alone unless they are desperate. By comparison, in its native Europe, some 60 or 70 insects eat garlic mustard, including some that don't seem to eat anything else. The local fauna doesn't tend to recognize the invader's leaves and roots as food, so the invader doesn't get munched up as often as the native plants. This gives the invader a competitive edge over the natives. As the invader pushes out the native plants, the native plant-eaters decline, and so do the birds, frogs, and other critters that feed on the plant-eaters. Our local plants have co-evolved with the local fauna and they are mutually dependent. It is said that when a single native plant species dies out, up to 30 other plants and animals may be adversely affected.
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
Picture: Second -year garlic mustard already in seed and starting to die. Hoyt Street Alley, Stamford, CT June 2006. ![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
Picture: First -year garlic mustard seedlings on the forest floor, Mill River bank near Cloonan, Stamford, CT June 2006 Know the enemy: Remember that garlic mustard is a biannual. The eradication strategy should follow the plant's growth cycle. The first-year basal rosettes can be easily hand pulled, and the removal work can be carried out any time that the ground isn't frozen. Pull gently and tamp the earth back down immediately to minimize soil disturbance. However, no matter how careful you are, pulling the plant up will disturb the earth to some degree and reopen the seed bank, so continued vigilance and, for large areas, over-planting of desired plants is recommended. Over-planting: Where the anti-invasive movement needs to improve is in identifying the best plants for over-planting areas cleared of invasives and getting this information out to the public. One published garlic mustard study showed that jewelweed and box elder seedlings bested the garlic mustard seedlings. Box elder, a native maple, can get a bit weedy itself, so won't be everyone's first choice. Jewelweed, though, has interesting possibilities. It is a native annual that the deer will eat when hungry. It thrives in moist shade, so the seeds are often available in large quantities near areas where we're likely to be pulling out garlic mustard. Someone, please try this and write in about the results. Second-year plants should also be (carefully) pulled up until they start to flower. At this point, the plant can be cut to the ground, instead, thus lessening the soil disturbance (even if a bit hard on the back). If cut all the way to the ground, once in flower, tests show that the plant has a low chance of being able to re-generate. (Caution: if only cut part way to the ground, or cut too early, the plant will come back, possibly with double or triple the flowers.) NOTE: ONCE THE PLANT HAS GONE TO SEED, PULLING UP THE DYING PLANT AND THROWING IT NEXT TO THE TRAIL HELPS IT SPREAD!!!!! Don't do this, tempting as it is. The plant has already reached the end of its life cycle, so pulling it up only disturbs the earth and propels the seeds over a larger area than they could have achieved on their own. Instead, the seeded plant should be cut to the ground as gently as possible so as to keep the seeds intact for bagging. By this stage, it might be the best use of resources to leave the seeded adults alone and concentrate efforts on protecting the earth from disturbance and on the pulling the baby rosettes which will create seeds next year. All roots and all adult plants should be placed in a black plastic bag in the sun to sterilize. (Since this it what it takes to kill the stuff, you can see why garlic mustard is winning). Throwing the roots and seeds in the compost or garbage, or leaving them along the trail, only compounds the problem.
picture: New first year garlic mustard in the woods at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT April 2006. The plants will bloom, seed, and die next year. Alternative idea: Since humans are the most effective North American pests for garlic mustard, it has been suggested that we start eating it again. They say it makes an excellent pesto, and it is good for you. Caution: Never eat plants grown near a road or driveway where heavy metals from car exhausts may have poisoned the ground. Also beware of old industrial sites, and dumping sites. further reading: The Nature Conservancy: Element Stewardship Abstract Public Library of Science: Invasive Plant Suppresses the Growth of Native Tree Seedlings by Disrupting Belowground Mutualisms
return to home pagePhoto credits: Sue Sweeney � Sue Sweeney 2006








Comments (1)
My wife and I harvest garlic mustard from the woods behind our yard all the time. It's delicious! And it has so thoroughly taken over, that there's no danger of running out. We bought a small book called "From Pest to Pesto" about the plant, including many recipes. Thanks for the description and great pictures!
Posted by Michael | June 5, 2006 8:10 AM
Posted on June 5, 2006 08:10